3 minute read

In this episode, we make new friends, sleep a lot, and do the laundry.

a tidy room with wooden floor, walls, and ceiling, and two adjacent twin beds

Good hosts

It feels so good to be welcomed into someone’s home. We spent three nights in Tromsø, sleeping in Sietske’s room and enjoying the quiet moments in our days with Ira. She welcomed us when we arrived, showed us where the bicycles lived, helped us figure out the laundry and all of the normal new-place things, and then set us free to play at life for a while in a beautiful home in the north.

H sitting at a wooden table covered with breakfast foods in a bright wooden kitchen

Most of the time we spent in Tromsø, we spent catching up on clerical things. We shopped for groceries. I bought bigger rubber gloves and some truly majestic rain pants.

Chris flexing his muscles in neon yellow reflective rain pants, rain jacket, and blue rubber gloves I am now invulnerable to the elements.

We got a few things squared away with the bicycles. I checked in with my future employer, wrapped up some loose ends with the Cap Lab, and chipped away at the blog. Our friend at the City of Flagstaff’s land trust program called. She’s helping us through the process of selling our house, so we had a super awesome call with her in the middle of a Norwegian shopping mall. We took lovely and much-needed showers, and got all our laundry clean and dry. We even took a few minutes to map our travels to date.

a map of northern norway with our route traced in sharpie

It’s amazing how busy days off can feel when you have so much to catch up on.

The fun stuff

The rest of our time was the best of our time.

a skin on frame kayak lined with caribou fur

We went to the museum of polar exploration, which was fascinating and sometimes very challenging. Reading about man’s ingenuity in the mechanization of seal harvest hurt. The section on the Nansen expedition was amazing, though, and seeing one of the original kayaks (from the 1890s voyage) was awesome. I could have spent days in their map room; the collection of ancient and absurd maps of Norway on display was just too cool.

a duck comes in to land near a small birch on the prestvannet

We walked, and rode, and sat by the Prestvannet, the small lake in the center of Tromsøy. The lake itself is lovely and serene. The walking trails around it are busy and social. After riding hard to reach Tromsø, we were a bit worn out, and may not have been able to appreciate it fully.

H yawning really big in front of the same view as above

We had long, lovely conversations with Ira, about books, music, Norway, hopes and dreams, travel, and the collapse of the Greek educational system. I hope we get to see her again someday. Best of all, Ira and Jean from downstairs coordinated a little pot-luck dinner for all of us. H made a big pan of delicious fried rice, Ira whipped up a pot of Greek lentil soup, and Jean made pasta.

a hand-made ceramic citrus juicer, with limes for the fried rice

Still hungry, Anouk and I spent a while making pizza and pouring leaves from one vessel to another. I just wish my Norwegian were good enough to understand what that was all about!

a young girl pretends to eat a slice of pizza made from felt ingredients

We talked with Jean about kitchen design, then Mattias got the guitar down and we had a great sing-along. Lessons learned:

  1. Put your windows over counter space, not above sinks or stoves. It’s better.
  2. Learn to play a few songs on a common instrument. Sharing music with people is great.

Jean playing guitar and singing, H reading music, Ira and Anouk playing in background

Leave-taking

We had initially planned to stay for 1-2 nights, but had so much fun, and took so long to get our act together, that we ended up staying a third.

shortbread cookies with raspberry whipped cream and berry sauce

We made fancy dessert, met Sietske briefly when she got home on our last night, and talked bikes and plants and islands and other good things before turning in. Such a wonderful stay!

New friends

  • Ira
  • Sietske
  • Mattias
  • Jean
  • Anouk
  • mjødurt

a field guide illustration of mjødurt, which has pairs of smaller leaflets between larger ones